This trip was probably the best surprise since we've arrived in Korea. On our way to Oedo in search of an adventure we stopped in a city (Jinju) to change busses. By sheer stupidity discovered that the number one festival (at least that's what they said) in all of Korea was happening there, "The Jinju Lantern Festival". So we followed the huddled masses down to the city center and to the bed of a most decorated river. There were more than 1000 lanterns on and off the river. We soon discovered that this lantern festival is based in historical lore. Legend has it, that while under attack from the invading Japanese army Korean troops signaled each other by putting lanterns on the water. As the war went on the Koreans were able to fend off the Japanese largely through this hidden means of "lantern" communication. Now these lanterns are a symbol of hope and represent the courage of the Korean Spirit. Lanterns are hung and "floated" on the river as a remembrance of the ancient war and as a sign of the enduring Korean spirit.
I must say we were very impressed by the variety of events and activities they had there. While the festival originated through Korean tradition I must say it had a very modern if not Western aspect to it. On Saturday we saw a Bullfight. We were hoping for the "ole!" kind but it was only Bull vs. Bull, not Man vs. Bull. Of course there was the traditional plays and singing in the ancient palace grounds and a full-blown parade down their "main street". While we were treated to a spectacular Korean parade it was quite a spectacle seeing the Korean police scramble while cars are still going down the street as the parade is starting. We laughed as the whole parade stopped to wait for a car that had refused to turn around try to weave its way through the crowd honking the whole time. Good fun. In fact we had so much fun that we stayed out till 1 A.M and forgot that every motel turns off its vacancy signs during that weekend. We tried about a dozen places including ones that visably wouldn't make the A or B rating in the US. But we had no luck. Finally we found a street buzzing with the Korean "Open" signs. I was regaining hope until Jolene pointed out the hooker heels and the painted woman just inside the entrance. I thought they were just friendly but apparently we had found the Korean "red-light" district. But in a last desperation found an open sign next door to one of the active brothels and coaxed an un-sober Korean to let us stay. We hunkered down for the night trying to ignore the "sounds of the night", But what else can we say... authentic Korean experience. *Smile
The Lantern festival was beautiful after the sun set, as it was the best way to appreciate the whole effect. Lanterns, as the new tradition goes, are really more like giant parade floats, lit up, and literally "floating" on the water. Jolene and I got to taste some traditional Korean food from the outside venders, tried on the royal garments from ancient times, watched 150+ floats light up on the water and made our own mini lantern as an official "Miguk" (American) contribution.
I cannot describe the excitement in the air or the feeling of seeing thousands of Korean walking through and among thousands of lanterns but it was very impressive. Jolene thought it was romantic, but at times the crowds were a bit much for her and and I. Still this festival, despite its drawbacks, served us an almost "timeless" bridge connecting the traditional Korean past with the Westernized Korean present.
