Crazy Cow

Since our arrival in Korea, we have received multiple warnings from the local restaurants to national advertisements on T.V. cautioning from the certain death followed by eating American beef. Although, technically Mad Cow disease has less than a .001% chance of infecting Koreans and will only show symptoms ten years after consuming infected meat, the Koreans are certain that not only has Mad Cow disease infected their president who contracted with the “Crazy Americans and their cows’, but also every product imported from the States. As a result beef products have decreased in price as Koreans refuse to “jeopardize their future” for a piece of meat. We would have liked to take advantage of this fortunate skepticism but beef prices still hang around $12 U.S. dollars a pound. While this crisis has cause restaurants to post “Australian and New Zealand beef” signs at most places (including McDonalds and Burger King), it has been for the most part just an exercise in pandemic fear and a bit of anti U.S. spirit. Example, Conversation with my students:
Me :“Japan took over Korea and put many men into prison.”
Student: “Yes, they did awful things to them in prison. They hurt them and killed them. Japan is bad.”
Me: “Yes, some people from Japan were bad at that time. That’s why U.S.A. came over to help the Korean be free from Japan.”
Student:”Ah, yes… Americans are good.”
I am smiling, thinking I have done my patriotic duty of slanting Korean history for a ten-year-old when he replies.
Student:”But teacher… Crazy Cow… Americans are bad.”
I have no reply. But who knows may be the Koreans did eat some of the beef.

Jinju Lantern Festival

This trip was probably the best surprise since we've arrived in Korea. On our way to Oedo in search of an adventure we stopped in a city (Jinju) to change busses. By sheer stupidity discovered that the number one festival (at least that's what they said) in all of Korea was happening there, "The Jinju Lantern Festival". So we followed the huddled masses down to the city center and to the bed of a most decorated river. There were more than 1000 lanterns on and off the river. We soon discovered that this lantern festival is based in historical lore. Legend has it, that while under attack from the invading Japanese army Korean troops signaled each other by putting lanterns on the water. As the war went on the Koreans were able to fend off the Japanese largely through this hidden means of "lantern" communication. Now these lanterns are a symbol of hope and represent the courage of the Korean Spirit. Lanterns are hung and "floated" on the river as a remembrance of the ancient war and as a sign of the enduring Korean spirit.

I must say we were very impressed by the variety of events and activities they had there. While the festival originated through Korean tradition I must say it had a very modern if not Western aspect to it. On Saturday we saw a Bullfight. We were hoping for the "ole!" kind but it was only Bull vs. Bull, not Man vs. Bull. Of course there was the traditional plays and singing in the ancient palace grounds and a full-blown parade down their "main street". While we were treated to a spectacular Korean parade it was quite a spectacle seeing the Korean police scramble while cars are still going down the street as the parade is starting. We laughed as the whole parade stopped to wait for a car that had refused to turn around try to weave its way through the crowd honking the whole time. Good fun. In fact we had so much fun that we stayed out till 1 A.M and forgot that every motel turns off its vacancy signs during that weekend. We tried about a dozen places including ones that visably wouldn't make the A or B rating in the US. But we had no luck. Finally we found a street buzzing with the Korean "Open" signs. I was regaining hope until Jolene pointed out the hooker heels and the painted woman just inside the entrance. I thought they were just friendly but apparently we had found the Korean "red-light" district. But in a last desperation found an open sign next door to one of the active brothels and coaxed an un-sober Korean to let us stay. We hunkered down for the night trying to ignore the "sounds of the night", But what else can we say... authentic Korean experience. *Smile

The Lantern festival was beautiful after the sun set, as it was the best way to appreciate the whole effect. Lanterns, as the new tradition goes, are really more like giant parade floats, lit up, and literally "floating" on the water. Jolene and I got to taste some traditional Korean food from the outside venders, tried on the royal garments from ancient times, watched 150+ floats light up on the water and made our own mini lantern as an official "Miguk" (American) contribution.

I cannot describe the excitement in the air or the feeling of seeing thousands of Korean walking through and among thousands of lanterns but it was very impressive. Jolene thought it was romantic, but at times the crowds were a bit much for her and and I. Still this festival, despite its drawbacks, served us an almost "timeless" bridge connecting the traditional Korean past with the Westernized Korean present.

Hwasun Day Trip

Early one Sunday morning we left our apartment in search of a place we'd never been before. Equipped with a map a rough sense of direction and the twelve words we know in Korean, we set out on a bus bound for Hwasun. Upon exiting the bus both Jolene and I noticed that there were no other busses at the bus stop. Nor were there any signs of western nature that we had grown accustom to in Gwangju. This was Korea. The real Korea. We were excited. We were scared. Flagging a couple of Hanguks (Koreans) from the comfort of their own home we proceeded to ask them for directions to Yunjuksa. After several minutes of creatively using a combination of yes, no, thank you, taxi, bathroom, and American the frustrated Korean pointed us in a direction and said "Chooooogeeee" (meaning way over there). So we started walking. There, we found a different bus station and boarded a bus for our chosen location. (Later we found out that our first stop was only a drop off location and had we stayed there we might still be waiting there for a bus.)

Upon arrival to a deserted rice field we spotted a sign for the remote temple. As it was Sunday we entered into the site free of charge and enjoyed the quite solstice of a deserted landmark of Korean culture. There were many stone carvings, statutes and pagodas. There was nothing incredibly special about this place except for its peaceful atmosphere. Mostly we enjoyed the view and the chance to be far removed from the chaos of the cities. However far removed from the city, we did find chaos even in there. About 30% of bathrooms in Korea are squat toilets (meaning a glorified hole in the ground), and as you get away from the city the percentage rises close to 100%. Jolene can also testify that the further away from the cities the more interesting things you can find in there. The usual flies and little bugs are the rural bathroom attendants and if you are lucky a small green tree frog might just jump out of the sink so you can wash your hands of the place. Anyway, we found the trip exhilarating and are excited to experience more of the chaos in Korea whether it be in the rural or urban environment.

Seoul of Asia

Jolene and I took a trip up to Seoul with our friends in September. Our trip was really amazing as we went during the Korean Thanksgiving (Tsusak as they call it). As one of the major holidays there were many events and activities that we got to see while we were there. I think it was our first taste of something that is truly Korean. We both loved it. We say a performance in the park with dancers, singers and drummers. We also bought tickets for a show called Nanta. A musical rhythm performance done by the Korean in a kitchen setting. It was really amazing both Jolene and I got to go on stage and participate in the cooking/rhythm experience.

While we were there we also got to see a major part of the city with our friends Louis and Lisa. Together we went to the top of Seoul tower, down the Han river in a tour boat, through the biggest underground mall in all of Asia and into some of the biggest and most historically important temples and fortresses. All were equally impressive.







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