Changing of the Guard

This season begins a season of change here in Korea. With Christmas approaching, new teachers replacing our year-long friends and the weather gifting frosty mornings by way of snowy nights, our routine has been pleasantly interrupted. Most of all we are really excited about the snow. Here are some pictures of our city. Yeah for a White Christmas!

Life...

Here are some of pictures of the past few weekends. We've slowed traveling a bit because the weather is getting really cold. We're getting excited for our Christmas trip to the Philippines. Love you all and miss you all very much.

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Question: How do you market an unspectacular variety of chocolate biscuits to an overly healthy conscious country?

Answer: You start a new holiday!

On November 11th, or 11/11 it is becoming customary for children and adults to pepper their friends, family, lovers and would-be lovers with a box of chocolate dipped cookie sticks. We have documented the recent phenomenon to give you just a glimpse of the "Pepero craze" thats seems to keep growing every year. In is sixth (or so) year, the annual "Pepero Day" continues to bankroll the Korean chocolate biscuit niche. Lotte, the Korean manufacturer, accounted for 55% of its Pepero sales during the first two weeks in November.



Today one of my students cried because she realized that all of her money is gone and she doesn't even like Pepero. "Teacher it gives me a headache and I can't sleep deep at night. I hate Pepero Day". Hmmm, Western commercialism connects with Eastern diets...bad combination.


...This is just about half of the goodies Jolene and I got from our kids...

A short piece I wrote about the local zoo...

Breathtaking images and footage, products of decade-long research, along with top animal care facilities in major cities all over the world have introduced a new educational standard for animal awareness, animal habit and human interaction. Zoos, such as the one in Seoul, Everland’s Zootopia, are continuing to develop innovative enclosures that enhance the view of the onlooker as well as provide a safe and natural environment for the animals themselves. Despite the progress and improvement in the major metropolitan cities and among the general population of the modern world, there remain many institutions across the globe that far fall below the new minimum standard of animal protection.

Unfortunately a prime example of unacceptable animal treatment resides within Gwangju. Kumho Resort’s Woochi Park, near Ilguk Dong boasts over 50 enclosure and more than 100 species of animals including elephants, giraffes, tigers, lions, bears and other classic residence of typical zoos. However, despite well intentions it is an abysmal residence, home of many abused and maltreated animals. From the scar laced bodies of the hyenas and jaguars to the oozing, raspberry-layered calluses of the baboons to the forlorn face of the lone Dalmatian, the mini-zoo serves more as a depressing reminder of animal cruelty than a functional, educational facility.




According to Kim Hong Moon, full-time staff at Kumho Resort, Woochi Park and FamilyLand have been financially stressed due to a worsening economy and an H1N1 conscious community. Also, for Woochi Park, at an entrance fee of only 1,500 Won, the resources to support the animals let alone renovate or improve the facility must be fairly, if not impossibly, difficult. While Woochi Park has had some success with elephant rides (5,000 Won for ten-minutes) and elephant feedings (2,000 Won for a bag of carrots), the monetary struggle is physically obvious upon first setting foot in the premises. Like a long abandon theme park, many of the enclosures display over-used and under-maintained features. Many of the water areas for animals such as seals, hippos, and penguins including the arboretum are either at extremely low levels or completely empty. Organic materials, as simple as dirt, grass or trees, are non-existent, save for seven enclosures. The simple irony of the wolf enclosure situated next to sheep, contributes to Woochi Park’s shameful exhibition of animals. The general poor health and mood of the animals is clearly evident. Limited ventilation provides a very repulsive stench to the areas as well. According to multiple foreigner interviews Woochi Park is very depressing to the western viewer.




However, while the responsibility for the condition of the animals ultimately rests with the park, the visitors’ display of the same disconcert for the animals’ well-being is as depressing as those who built the ill wrought cages themselves. On a moment-by-moment basis the malnourished animals greedily accept food from visitors. Baboons eagerly choke down stale popcorn and chimpanzee battle to soften the dried squid, meanwhile, the health of the animal are being compromised by the influence of non-natural feed. At all modern parks this type of behavior is not tolerated. Shockingly, this behavior is not only demonstrated by children or adolescents, but by parents with their eager, supple-minded toddlers in tow.

Woochi Park may be amusing for those who disregard the condition and well-being of animals, however, it serves as a truly sad image of reality where good intentions and ill planning intersect with underfunding and poor execution. This, in turn, is also breathtaking.

Jeju Island

Jeju: Honestly the best place we've visited here in Korea. Black volcanic stones littering the country side with a rising cylindrical cone backdrop visible from every city on the Island. With crater islands, sheer waterfalls ending in turquoise/emerald pools, sub-tropical vegetation and all the chocolate you would ever want to buy, it ranks at the very top of our visited spots...well in Korea anyway. Our three-day vacation with Louis and Lisa was really enjoyable and it served as a much needed break from the kids. Enjoy the photos.

Everland

Everland.

Not to be confused with the former pop-star mansion Neverland. A place, like many others in Korea that fail to fully capture the identity of an American concept. Still it served its purpose to provide a day of entertainment that was surprisingly comparable to the "Happiest Place on Earth."

Surprise.

4:08 A.M. Sept. 19th. I bound onto the Jolene-shaped covers, bearing gifts of her soon-to-be most happy birthday.

"Ah!!! Go away!,"
"It's your birthday."
"Not yet..., what time is it"
"It doesn't matter, it's your birthday."
"(moan)..then let me sleep."
"Nope! Can't do that." (Watching for the swinging fists, thanks for the tip Chris)

After several belabored minutes, I rouse the sleeping monster and slowly watch her transform back into my wife as she opens up the presents: A Book, A Bag, A Movie. She says thanks and falls on the bed with far flung hopes of reversing her hasty metamorphous.

"If I were you, I'd get dressed."
"Ahhhh... why?"
"Cause I don't think you'll be comfortable in those pajamas all day."
"...If you were me how long would I have to get dressed?"
" about ten minutes."

Ten minutes later. Knock-knock.

"What is wrong with you people... the sun is not even up yet."

Louis and Lisa join the pre-dawn fun and bustle us out the door. We are later joined by Paul as we proceed to march Jolene towards the bus stop in the pre-dawn coolness.

"Where the heck are we going?"
"Not on your life...hehe"

We continue to harass her as she sits, shivering on the sidewalk waiting for the phantom bus to arrive. She makes a feeble effort to read the sign as it passes by but the four-against-one strategy worked well in our favor. Jolene boards the bus at 5:10 in the morning of her most Happy Birthday swearing under her breath about how she's going to get me back next year.

5:30 On the bus
6:30 On the bus
7:12 The sun rises
7:30 Still on the bus
8:30 Still, still on the bus
9:20 Approaching Everland (Korea's Disneyland)
9:22 Fastest-ever witnessed transformation from grumpy, morning-blues to squealing, clapping, happiness.

"WE'RE GOING TO EVERLAND!!!!"


Thus ends the birthday surprise and begins my wife's most Happy Birthday.

We love the Outdoors

Determined to get out of Gwangju we chose to visit Daecheon Beach "...oh ya you be'sit Daecheon. R'ike begas (Las Vegas)." Like many things in Korea, this place was way over rated. Laughlin gets six stars compared to this.

"Hey, at least it's got a beach".

We roll into town on the bus and are greeted by card-flipping solicitors peddling love motels with "exercise" equipment.

"Well, I guess it's a little bit like Vegas."

Because we love the outdoors we head to the campground in hopes of finding a decent spot. Finished setting up our Sierra Outdoors three-season tent we notice the gargantua-size "camping" tents surrounding our "hiking" tent. Tarps spread from one tree to another protecting the wimpy wal-mart edifices.

Fact: Koreans believe that their living space should be the same size whether at home or in the outdoors.

"Hey ours is small."
"But it super rainproof."
"...Yeah, like a superkid tent"
"Whatever, let's go to the beach."

It starts raining.

"It'll stop."

It keeps raining.

As we look for a place to eat the locals show up and flip their restaurant cards at us. Of all the things in Vegas that was the one thing they took back to Korea. Chicken, Pizza, Korean Traditional Food, Raw Fish, Raw Octopus, Raw Clam, Raw Shark, Raw in-your-face-whateveryoufindintheocean restaurant.

The day passed, the rain stayed.

We retired to the superkid tent near eleven to the sound of a soju induced argument or bridal blessing (you can never tell). We love the outdoors. Resigned to the fact that sleep was going to be elusive till late we decided to play cards.

"Did you bring the cards?"
"No, I thought you were going to bring the cards."
"No.....(rummage) Wanna play Go Fish." Shuffle. Deal
"Got any Chicken Restaurants?......"And so it went...

Later we drifted off, dreaming of Ice Cream Chicken and Angry Octopus Motel Rooms. Still raining

2:00 Raining
"Honey, I'm worried."
3:00 Raining Cats and Dogs
"Honey, I'm really worried now."
"Good thing we have a superkid tent otherwise we would be in big trouble now. I bet those Koreans are wishing they had a good hiking tent like ours."
4:00 Raining Cats and Dogs and our tent is flooding from the bottom.
"Hey, my sleeping pad is wet."
"...."
"Hey, my sleeping bag is wet."
"Haha..."

We love the outdoors.

September

...I'll be gone till September, I'll be gone till September...

(I don't think Wyclef Jean will mind the change).

Too many updates, too much to say, so little motivation. Our return home was wonderful. For those of you who saw us we miss you already and for those of you who we didn't see we miss you more. We enjoyed the comforts and hospitality of our friends and the good food (thanks to Santana's and In-n-out). Unfortunately, our camera was stolen in San Clemente, so we are a little behind on our photos. Anyway, we're glad to be back but also realizing that the second time around isn't as much fun. However, having said that we have been really enjoying our time back. With Canine soup and fresh grapes from the vine to late night Karaoke bars and little smiling, snot-nosed faces, we've kept busy.

The Fourth of July

The Fourth was a great day as Jolene and I met up with Troy and Sarah Harkin for a long but awesome independence day. We began our day at Dae-In market as participants in the 2nd Annual UNESCO Amazing Race. We split up into teams with people from around the world and had various missions to accomplish in a crowded Korean market. It was competitive but Jolene Eeeked out third place for a grand total prize of 50,000. Too bad that's only worth $50 U.S. dollars. But it was fun. After dinner we set off fireworks at the reservoir, appropriate for the occasion.

Jeollanam-Do

With a fast closing window of good weather left Jolene and I took advantage of our weekend free time and visited some of the more remote places in our province. Our first trip was to an island with some friends. It was our first camping experience here in Korea and it made us thirsty for more. So we decided to scout our next possible location the following weekend: Jirisan National Park, the biggest national park in Korea (just about the size of Lake Arrowhead. We got some fun stills before the rain came down and ended our scouting mission short. We're definitely going to make a return trip there. We're excited to come home and see every one. Pray for us, those who are reading this, this last month or so has been a little tough preparing for our visit home. That'll about do it for tonight. -Lil.

Anniversary

For our two year anniversary, Jolene and I decided to just try a "Get-Away" weekend in Namhae Island for our honeymoon. While it was not near as exciting as other places we've been it did have one thing we were missing: Beach. Ahhh, the warm weather was perfect for the cozy two days we spent in the scarcely populated island. It is one of the most beautiful places we've been in Korea and Hilton has agreed because there was a 5 star resort about two coves up from up. We preferred to splurge the $25 buck and stay at a local motel. Hmm, maybe we should stay here next year....

By the way for those of you who don't know Jolene and I will be staying another 6-12 months in Korea. We decided that we really miss everyone back home but with the economy suppressing potential jobs our best bet would be to stay here another year. And hey we've really enjoyed it here so it's not that big of a sacrifice.

DMZ

After two miserably failed attempts "The Little's" finally made it to the DMZ. It was a colossal let-down. Not only did it make for a fourteen-hour bus day, but the air made any interesting site seeing a remote possibility. We're still glad we made the effort because we did get to enter a North Korean Invasion Tunnel, we saw some NK soldiers across the barriers staring back at us and we bought a ticket for Pyeongyang for whenever they choose to open the borders again. Would we recommend it: "Yeah, I think it's one of those things you just gotta do." Would we do it again: "Anniiiiyyoooo" (Korean for "no way").